Profile of Dzuari

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Thread: "L2Play!" - Ok, can someone help me do that14 Jul 2014, 16:20 PM I forgot to add, If you find yourself forgetting to set hotgroups in the mid/late game, to practice it, just do it as soon as you start. I do Riflemen(1)(2)(3), RE (4), very good for quickly reacting and flanking once you get into contact, especially if your playing against OH with MGs. There is pretty much no circumstance where you wont start out 3 riflemen to ambulance if you want to hold your ground. The only exception i found to this is Riflemen, riflemen, RE, ambulance. I found on CQB points against only OKW, if you rush RE to build a fighting emplacement and garrison it to fire grenade launchers. the OKW cant do anything against it till they get tier 2-3. It's amazing in city centers where they will try to garrison buildings. Typically they will turtle outside of it till they can push you, if they bunker up, just wait till you get airborne, push your infantry, smoke it, force a retreat, drop airborne and demo the bunkers. As for the priest mentioned above, the only time i find it viable is if i've located a OKW truck that's in range of it from my front and the player tends to mass retreat. It's much more effective to punish him as he heals rather than try to hit moving targets assaulting you. In: Strategy Desk
Thread: "L2Play!" - Ok, can someone help me do that14 Jul 2014, 15:56 PM Jump back to quoted post10 Jul 2014, 00:01 AMCorp.Shephard Let me suggest some: For the Captain Player -Three Riflemen -Ambulance -Captain -Pack Howitzer -Stuart Light Tank -AT Gun -Major -M8A1 Howitzer Motor Carriage -AT gun -Sherman -Jacksons Aim for these armies. Try to make good decisions based on what you see. These are basically doctrine non-specific but you can change them based on the doctrine you are going. I actually wrote my "In Before the Blitz" guide for Airborne players who want to get a fast Captain. It is basically the build above but in team games I always suggest a Pack Howitzer if you go fast Captain. They're pretty nice and the powerful early game of the US forces means you can afford it. I can't watch the replays because im at work but i can tell you that a properly microed stuart is probably as valuable if not more than a jackson, and its half the price. I can second this for airborne, proper micro of the stuart and using its 3 shot blind/stun ability with the captain backing it up can annihilate early light armor without taking any direct damage from the armor(watch for AT guns and AT inf though). the stuart also blends effectively into the late game better than the flaktrack, especially on 2v2 maps where their are a lot of large open maps and usually german turtling armor. mid game before the heavy german armor comes out, use the stuart to back up 1 rifleman squad that is harassing the lesser defended areas, this will force the germans to send some kind of AT, keep it far enough back that the enemy can't see it when they hit your riflemen, but when they do, bring it up and micro any threats then fall back, rinse and repeat. You can effectively lock down the weak areas with proper riflemen placement and stuart support. And if you can afford a airborne x2 1919 squad GG to any light counters your way.(if an MG/AT gun comes, smoke the MG and push your airborne for a flank(you can also use this tactic to demo charge bunkers with airborne). Don't push your stuart if a light armor/infantry comes though, just put some shots into it, push it back and hold the line, your stuart presence is more valuable as a threat than actually trying to get a kill with it, especially if you are already holding both fuels.(you'll out tech them nullifying the light armor once you can get a sherman or jackson up for support) late game once the heavy armor starts rolling, shift the stuart back to your strong front and keep it behind your AT and jackson. Once you see an armor push, your .50/howitzer/sherman .50 should lock down any infantry, use the stuart to flank and stun shot the heavy armor, push a riflemen squad up to AT nade it, flank with your sherman and let your jackson/AT guns tear it apart with armor piercing ability rounds from afar. A very effective thing to get good at with proper armor micro is to use ctrl-(1-9) to set your unit hotkeys, i usually set artillery (1) stuart (2), sherman (3), jackson (4),(always set the same starting out for muscle memory) this allows you to quickly cycle and position them. Another method is put two or more shermans in (2) then hit "tab" to cycle in the group, this way you dont have to punch 1-6 to get all your units. Once the german armor is taken out, pop smoke on any hurt shermans, shermans can pop smoke but they have to stop moving to do so(if you have 2, shoot the smoke from the healthy one to protect the hurt one) howitzers also can provide smoke for your retreating stuart(fire this ahead of time) and riflemen also smoke. It will take a while to get good at but if you can, it can be extremely punishing to an over zealous german. Once you force the retreat push your line up quickly, lock down your new area close to their HQ. At this point you pose a dangerous threat to their main base and are probably in howitzer range of it, either forcing the other player to shift his armor(weakening your friends front) to halt you or suffer the base rape. tips hotkeying your stuart/captain in mid game is also advised. always right click and drag the direction you want the armor to face. shift click specific routes for tough terrain. Try to get directly behind the enemy armor with the stuart at pointblank range for three reasons, one, if your round penetrates it stunts(immobilization), two, you can use your pointblank ability to do more damage, and three, you can block the armor from retreat if your riflemen can't get an AT nade in. once your 3 shot ability is done get out of there, the stuart has done its job.(howi/riflemen smoke the retreat path before the Stuart gets behind the armor). If you see any armor push you with an HMG/AT gun firing behind it, always start with your artillery at hotkey (1) to blind it with smoke before microing your armor. howitzer smoke is more effective in large attacks to blind the enemy HMGs/AT guns than direct firing HE. if you can stuart stun and cut off its infantry AT/support with smoke from your hopefully large arsenal of smoke machines you'll decimate the armor then be able to mop up the remaining infantry. When retreating your stuart, usually moving to the flanks of the engagement is the safest, an easy minimap click will send it on its way without you have to worry about it, i usually send it far back behind my lines till i can repair it. If you have good situational awareness you can also send it behind the smoked out AT guns to make quick work. Unless you're playing really good players they probably wont be able to to notice it to turn their guns one you with their panther/tiger getting annihilated. In: Strategy Desk
Thread: Soviet "IronRoman" Strategy8 Jul 2013, 12:25 PM I haven't done this strategy with the shock troops but a 4mg start does work really well(i run 120mm mortar +4mgs), you just have to micro the positioning right or it all falls apart, i usually set the first 3 on choke points and the fourth as a flex unit, if one MG has to retreat my flex falls in its place so i never loss suppression on a choke, then i just reinforce the hurt one and bring it back. This with mortar, su-75, hatyusha can decimate infantry and really beat down the germans with attrition/manpower drain, especially if they invest heavily in PG's. You really need some form of artillery to drain the enemy's manpower, if you just suppress and retreat they will float a lot of manpower and then over run you will force. tactically, once you set up you must advance every time the enemy assaults you and retreats, you need to look ahead of your defenses and behind and know where you want your MG's before the enemy hits you, if they retreat you advance, if they break through you know where you need to go. Do this and you will slowly envelope the map. O also, MINES!!!! mine everything, everywhere. start on your flanks, just enough so enemy mortars wont detonate them but the likely paths a scout car or P4 might travel. I usually mine my base heavily at mid game in case of a tank rush because i set all of my units on one side of the map. Leave your su-85 between your base and MG defense so it can react to where ever the enemy armor goes. TLDR: Proper MG chokepoint placement some sort of artillery, 86mm mortar, 120mm mortar, hatyusha, su-75, you have to drain the enemies manpower. Look behind and ahead of your defenses, advance when you force the enemy to retreat and you will slowly envelope the map. Also look to where you need to retreat in case of a break through. Hold 2 VP if possible so the Germans have to fight you(so you can attrition them) Mines, mines, mines, mines, more mines and some more mines. In: Red Army Strategies
Thread: Shouldn't the T-34 be stronger than the Panzer IV?8 Jul 2013, 12:11 PM I'm ok with the t34, i think the front armor should deflect A bit more though. What really bothers me is the cost, its it cheaper than the P4 but only by 20 gas? Going by history there was 35,119 T34 76s produced and only 9,870 P4's produced, and i believe that includes all variants of the P4. In: Red Army Strategies
Thread: Red Army Artillery build3 Jul 2013, 12:23 PM Jump back to quoted post30 Jun 2013, 05:55 AMTychoCelchuuu There's absolutely nothing wrong with it in a team game! It will work against bad players and maybe even against good players. Go back and read my first post - I was just trying to explain why you're not going to get a lot of serious discussion about team game arty spam strats on these forums. Now im not saying its a win all strategy, it is hard to do if you can't place early on, but it can work. In: Red Army Strategies
Thread: Red Army Artillery build3 Jul 2013, 12:11 PM Jump back to quoted post30 Jun 2013, 05:55 AMTychoCelchuuu There's absolutely nothing wrong with it in a team game! It will work against bad players and maybe even against good players. Go back and read my first post - I was just trying to explain why you're not going to get a lot of serious discussion about team game arty spam strats on these forums. Sorry but i have to completely disagree with you as far as arty is useless in 1v1. I will give you The 120mm is to much for 1v1 but arty can be effective in 1v1 by beating the enemy down by attrition. I usually run a similar strat in 1v1. maxim x3-4, 120mm mortar x3, maybe secondary engineer, AT x1-2,Guards 2-3x SU85 x1-2, maybe a katyusha or 2, then late game i switch to t34 meds. This is a 3 phase tactic that switches mid/end game, The trick to this strat is proper mg placement early on, don't let any units die, and let your enemy think hes got you. And when i say dont let any units die, i mean you cant afford to loose any units, keeping your hand on the retreat key is key . Phase 1(attrition): I start by always taking a flank VP(near gas), set up MGs, i might put one mid map just to slow movement. MINES!!! you probably aren't using much munitions in this strat so i mine the shit out of choke points to secure the flanks of your units from early flame halftracks and later panzers. then 120 mortars, if i get a halftrack rush ill retreat all, let the point cap, then push the either flank VP depending on how the game is going. By then i usually have AT gun, the mortars make quick work of any infantry in buildings. Set up shop and beat the enemy down by attrition. They will think they are winning and just bleed my VP down. After a su85 ill usually run a guard unit or two just to harass/scout the back lines or something. Also building a fuel point early game is important. After the VP is secure ill have my engineers mine the shit out of any choke points leading to my main in case of panzer rush, keeping a infantry unit of some kind to scout is important. Phase 2(Push): timing is important, you want to make sure you've bleed off some of the enemy panzers or push when they are in retreat. After i have a su85 or some katyusha ill start to push mid map, set my mgs between their main and mid map(i want them to die for the pop), then maybe kill off a mortar or two. I should have enough fuel because of all the infantry now and hopefully i bleed the enemy fuel down if they pushed panzers on me. Then comes the t34 mediums, the katyusha will decimate any grenadier AT, the su85 with the t34 can easily take a panther + any AT i have left. Phase 3(Assault) - After i push mid map i set up a light defense, more mines. My tanks will re secure my previous VP, i usually keep a mg or two back to lock down infantry. katyusha +120mm will destroy any infantry. Here is a key part, if they push the VP with my tanks, i only use enough katyusha to scare them off, no need for them to know everything i got, i usually try to hide my t34 if possible. I want them to push mid VP. When they do i rush main with the tanks, screen with the katyusha and incendiary barrage, any left over mortars, mgs, AT push from mid map. If they destroy any of my tanks, i usually have a ton of fuel for more. Pros - 120mm Mortars easily counter enemy mortar easy to keep a VP locked down semi-cons - Must micro manage MG placement Must identify choke points for mines Cons - Early mortars before your 120mm can be a problem. Halftrack mortar can be tricky to take out, guards help with that. A panzer rush on the other side of the map can be a threat, good to keep scouts or something over there, trip wires can work well. a tiger can be problematic, usually i do a slight rush, ram with a t34 then secure and repair. Mines, mines, mines In: Red Army Strategies